Washing machines and dishwashers are precious living aids, present in most homes. Perfectly mastered manufacturing techniques provide these devices with quality service, great reliability and good longevity. However, it is aboutautomatons, susceptible to accidental breakdowns. The hydraulic circuits, comprising flexible pipes and materials sensitive to aging, weakened by contact with aggressive products or by improper use, can be the cause of unpleasant malfunctions.
Fortunately, their repair is, in most cases, perfectly within reach of a handyman careful and attentive.
Tracing the origin of washing machine leaks
The detection the origin of a leak represents the major difficulty, but crucial for a lasting solution to the problem. It should be taken into account, the least oozing from its first appearance, because the unpredictable worsening of the phenomenon, constitutes the main risk factor, for the machine or for the goods and dangers for the individuals.
The periodicity of the leak gives an important indication of its origin
A leak observed during the washing cycle alone clearly indicates the implication of an element of the internal circuit of the appliance, during the filling or emptying phases. A leaking tank seal or excessive load may also be the cause.
When, on the contrary, the leak is constant, it is advisable to check the integrity of the supply pipe or the tightness of the fittings, up to the closing solenoid valve.
Drain on the back of washing machines or dishes
A leak on the back side of a water pressure device requires immediate support, because potentially generating significant water damage on your living space or that of the neighborhood, in particular on the lower floors. same in case of leak minimal, appearing to come from behind, it is appropriate to close immediately, tap insulation of the material concerned.
These leaks are always located downstream or upstream of the washing device.
1 – Failures of the flexible supply hose, attributable to the fittings
They are definitively resolved by the replace of the gaskets and present no danger. On the other hand, leaks related to the structure of the pipe can be really devastating. A rupture releases cubic meters of water in record time, so if there is any doubt about the integrity of the hose (seepage at crimps or cracks), it is advisable to do not use anymore the machine before replacement of the pipe.
2 – Discharges by draining
These leaks usually come from:
- of the defective hose attachment drain on the drain pipe fixed to the wall,
- of a elbow of the wall evacuation circuit located too close to the gooseneck emptying,
- of the’obturation of siphon or pipingevacuation.
A simple repositioning or cleaning is enough to solve the problem. If the leak is from the flexible tubing, it must be replaced.
Drains on the front of washing machines
The leaks visible on the front of the machine have two origins:
1 – The front window seal.
First, check that no object has interposed Between the joint and the window. When this is the case, there is usually no damage and remove the intruder definitely fixes the problem.
Extremely rare, the joint can besnatch of the tank body, during the forced extraction of a heavy and / or bulky piece of textile. This muscular manipulation rarely calls into question the integrity of the joint. It suffices to re-clip it on the tank, taking care to ensure correctly and without pinching, the continuity of the interlock.
Finally, the window seal can be cut, worn, hardened or cracked over time. It should therefore be replace. Equipped with the Mark the device, the model reference and serial number, engraved on the identification plate, a local distributor of spare parts for household appliances will find the right seal, in a jungle of models and variants, impossible to distinguish with the naked eye. This professional offers the virtual certainty of avoiding unpleasant surprises. Replacing the front window seal is within everyone’s reach:
- Tear off the old gasket of the tank, by pulling on its perimeter.
- Coat the groove of the new dishwashing liquid seal, to facilitate assembly.
- Clip the groove of the new seal in the housing provided on the tank.
This operation is done exclusively by hand. A microfiber cloth limits slipping. Do not use pliers, screwdrivers or other aggressive instruments, otherwise the new seal will be irreparably damaged. Some brands detail this process in their user manual.
2 – The laundry and product drawer
This accessory must be disassembled and cleaned up, all 2 months, about. This precaution protects against the risk of overflows caused by the accumulation and hardening of detergents in the sprinkler or the connecting tube to the tank. This frontal escape is nevers caused by a lack of sealing of this hose, because the flow of water would be observed under the machine. Operating mode:
- open the drawer as far as it will go,
- slightly lift (without forcing) the front part. The drawer should be pulled out effortlessly. Some appliances have a screwed stopper, clearly visible when the drawer is open.
Spills on the front of dishwashers
The dishwasher doors are fitted with peripheral seals. The upper seals, generally clipped in, are easily replaced. The lower seal is sandwiched between the interior facing and the door body on the one hand and clamped on a rod screwed to the tank body on the other hand. It is rare to have to replace these gaskets, but regular degreasing is essential.
Puddles of water under washing machines and dishwashers
The presence of a puddle of water under the device, without any sign of flow on the faces, reveals an internal leak. Most often, this is a defective or disconnected flexible hose. Locating visually (or by touching it by running your fingers along the pipes), requires disassembly of the upper plate, then of the rear face of the device. The flexible hoses are easily recognizable by the spring clamps, provided with 2 tabs, in relief, close facing outwards. Once the faulty one has been identified, the hose must be replaced or replaced as follows:
- loosen the collar by exerting pressure so as to bring the tabs together, using flat pliers,
- The pressure on the hard tube thus removed, disconnect the hose by printing slight alternating rotational movements,
- Replace the clamps on the new hose, then repeat the operation in reverse order.
A concentrated puddle under the machine near the front, is a sign of defective dump pump, still located in the lower part. You don’t fix a leaking pump. To replace it, tilt the machine backwards (never on the sides, which are more fragile), in order to access the 2 or 3 fixing screws. The flexible pipes are separated according to the usual procedure.
In the presence of old equipment, it is prudent to check and possibly replace, as long as the site is open, the condition of all flexible hoses. Before any intervention, it is imperative to unplug the electrical outlet of the machine.